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Is it possible to use use 2nd EE smart hub as switch/wifi extender

saishzakhai
Investigator
Investigator

I ask whether it's possible, as I've been here

 

https://community.ee.co.uk/t5/Broadband-home-phone/Adding-a-second-EE-smart-hub-router/td-p/889668

 

https://community.ee.co.uk/t5/Broadband-home-phone/How-do-I-connect-a-second-Bright-Box-2-to-a-first...

 

https://community.ee.co.uk/t5/Broadband-home-phone/How-do-I-use-my-EE-Smart-hub-as-a-router-only/td-... 

 

and the consensus seems to be that the new smart hub is dumbed down to the point where it can't be used as one. Features such as disabling adsl sensing are removed, so I was chasing instructions on something impossible.

 

This is the new EE smart hub with the 2 horizontal lights in the middle.

14 REPLIES 14

While it was working yesterday, the secondary router today got stuck at assigning IP addresses randomly. The main subnet of the EE hub is 192.168.1.254, and the DHCP range is .64 to .254. I had my 2nd router at .1.63, but tried changing it to .2.63 and now I can't access the web panel, although it seems to be working fine after a restart. I'm going to reset again, but the last thing I want to try is picking another DHCP range. It has another by default that's on a completely different subnet than the 192 ones. If it fails, I'll just settle for what I got working. Seems I'm asking for prosumer features from consumer hardware.

Hi @saishzakhai ,

 

Are you attempting to transition to a double-NAT configuration?

 

If you were, then by changing the subnet from 192.168.1.0/255.255.255.0 to 192.168.2.0/255.255.255.0 your laptop would lose access as it is still in the old subnet. You would need to disconnect the laptop and reconnect it to get a new DHCP-assigned IP address in the correct range.

 

(More commonly 192.168.1.0/255.255.255.0 is written as 192.168.1.0/24)

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Hi guys, I'm not dead. I just had some mission-critical stuff that stopped me tinkering with anything that might cut the internet. Anyway, I'm calling it quits. I tried the method above. I'll mark @mikeliuk as solution as turning off DHCP at least gave me a day of working internet. I had to weigh up the cost of productivity, and went with a TP-Link N300 and TL-SF1008D switch for £18, a week's worth of coffee. I can see the appeal of Apple's "simplicity" now. Sure, I could spend more weekends troubleshooting, but I feel the "correct" method is to turn on WAN on the 2nd router. That's not working, and I think the simplicity of the software is to blame. I'm trying to cut down a tree with a safety saw. You guys are obviously experts in networking, and I imagine you tinker with routers that let you take the safety wheels off. Thanks for all the help.

Just to round things off, I wanted to point out two guides with pictures on accomplishing both options mentioned above. They both mention LAN-to-LAN and LAN-to-WAN (either in the text, pictures, or headings).

 

https://www.wikihow.com/Connect-Two-Routers

 

https://www.wikihow.com/Cascade-Routers

 

I was quite surprised to find picture-based guides as the configuration is relatively simple but the pictures widen the audience to beyond the audience I would have expected.

 

Although I LAN-to-WAN my desktop/large-footprint routers, I recently fell victim to buying more than I need with Devolo Magic-2 WiFi Next and LAN Triple from Amazon Warehouse for a total of about GBP 135 (it was to remove an apparent 300 Mbps bottleneck which I imagined and was not present in the replaced dLAN adapters).

 

My opinion is that technology companies make a lot of profit from people buying more than they need so right-sizing purchases and re-using existing hardware are always good things. 😀

 

Quick mention that TP-Link N300 seems a pretty reasonable choice. WiFi extender so it effectively uses WiFi as backhaul instead of powerlines when using powerline adapters. An advantage over powerline adapters is not requiring a powerline adapter at each end. The disadvantage is the bandwidth will be limited by the WiFi link and the extender will need to receive a good signal. If one of the routers could have functioned in WiFi bridge mode, it could have taken the place of the TP-Link N300. On the other hand, a router capable enough to have a WiFi bridge mode would typically be too expensive to waste in such a function (I flashed DD-WRT to a compatible cheap router to get this functionality).

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XRaySpeX
EE Community Star
EE Community Star

Yes, it's most peculiar. I can do things with 2 Brightboxes that I can't do at all with 2 EE Smart Hubs:

Thanks! You're welcome 🙂 ! Glad I could be of assistance.

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